This is my standard “no brainer” hat that I knit in the round from the top-down. I start with 4 stitches on double points, work a little I-cord, and then move to a 16" circular needle when it’s big enough (or use 2 circs if you like). No seaming, no fuss. When you’re done just sew in the ends. It can be knit in any weight of yarn by changing the needle size to suit your yarn. I can knit one in a couple of hours.
I’ve listed finished sizes for kids, teens, and adults. The “long” measurement below refers to the length of the hat from the top of the head to the eyebrows. This hat should cover the ears. The measurements below are unstretched. Hats should be a little snug to fit well and stay on the head. They will stretch several inches larger than their finished size.
THE FREEDOM HAT
Kids 16" around - 6" long - increase to 64 sts - 16 sts per dpn
Teens 18" around - 7" long - increase to 72 sts - 18 sts per dpn
Adults 20" around - 8" long - increase to 80 sts - 20 sts per dpn
Size 8 (5 mm) needles (or you may need 7 (4.5 mm)
(5 dpns and a 16" circular, or use 2 circs or the magic loop method)
Worsted weight yarn
1-1/2 to 2 ounces (probably about 100 yards)
Gauge: 4 sts = 1"
THE BASIC HAT RECIPE:
Cast on 4 stitches onto one dpn.
With a second dpn, work in I-cord for 1" or more.
Mark the beginning of round and start knitting in the round.
Divide your stitches equally onto 4 needles. (I usually do this as I knit the first increase round.)
Round 1: Knit in front and back (kf&b) of all 4 stitches to increase to 8 stitches. Place 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, using a 5th dpn to knit with. (8 sts)
Round 2: Knit to last stitch on needle, kf&b. Repeat on remaining 3 dpns. (12 sts)
Repeat Round 2 increasing one stitch (kf&b) in the last stitch on each needle (4 sts added per round.) It doesn’t matter which stitch you do the increases in as long as you are consistent about it. Use the kf&b increase, a make 1, or other increase method of your choice.
Repeat Round 2 until you have enough stitches for the size hat you want.
When you have enough stitches on your needles, transfer your stitches to the 16" circular needle.
Knit even until the hat is 1-2" shorter than the desired length.
Change to ribbing for the final 1-2".
Bind off. Tuck in ends. Done!
Now some ideas to customize your hat...
TOP VARIATIONS:
a) Knit the I-cord longer and tie it in a knot.
b) Knit the I-cord and/or the increase section in green (or another color) and change to red, orange as a second color for the rest of the hat. This will make a fruit or pumpkin hat.
c) Knit or crochet a flower or a leaf and sew it to the top of the I-cord. (Or sew one or more to the sides of the hat.) Fasten securely so small children can’t pull them off.
d) Add a pompom or a tassel to the top.
e) Don’t like I-cord? Start with a circular cast on. Make a circle with your yarn, overlapping it a bit. With a crochet hook or a knitting needle, cast on 4 (or 8) stitches over this circle of yarn. Knit 1 round before beginning the increases. Pull the end of the yarn to tighten up the circle and fasten the end in securely.
CUFF VARIATIONS:
a) Roll brim: Knit the hat 1-2" longer than given. (To snug it up a bit, you can knit 1-2 rows of ribbing before you start the roll brim.)
b) Garter stitch: Knit 1 row, purl 1 row for last inch or two of the hat.
c) Eyelash or novelty yarn trim: Knit the ribbing or roll brim with a strand of eyelash yarn and your regular yarn.
d) Longer cuff: Knit a longer cuff if you want to fold the edge up for more ear protection.
e) Ribbing: Instead of K2, P2 ribbing, use k1, p1 or k1, p3, or k3, p1 ribbing.
SIDE VARIATIONS: Unless otherwise noted, start these after you finish the top increases.
a) Accent band: Knit a wide band of contrasting color, say 8-10 rows, toward the bottom of the hat.
b) Accent stripes: Use main color in top. Choose 3 other colors. Knit 4 rows with color B, 3 rows with color C, 2 rows with color D, 3 rows with color C, and 4 rows with color B. Finish remainder of hat with main color.
c) Cables: If you choose this option, add more stitches as cables will pull in reducing the size of the hat.
d) Elongated top: To make the top of the hat longer, knit 1 or more rows between each row of increases. This will make a tapered long top on the hat.
e) Graduated color: Choose one color and gather as many shades of it as you can. Start with lightest or darkest and knit several rows with each shade.
f) Narrow stripes: Choose 1 or more contrasting colors. Knit 2 rows of a contrasting color alternating with 2 rows of main color over the entire hat or just the sides.
g) Ribbed: Knit in k2, p2 ribbing.
h) Scrappy or Magic Ball: Tie lengths of yarn together and knit leaving the tails on the outside of the hat.
i) Slip stitch stripes: With a contrasting color, knit 3 stitches, slip 1 stitch around. On next row knit all the stitches with the contrasting color before returning to the main color.
j) Texture stitches: Choose those based on multiples of 4.
k) Tricolor “no jog”: Chose 2 colors to go with your main color. Knit the first 22/24/26 sts with color 1. Drop yarn, pick up color 2; knit the next 22/24/26 sts. Drop yarn, pick up color 3; knit the remaining 22/24/26 sts. Continue knitting around, dropping one color and picking up the next one as you come to it. Don’t twist the yarns together. Maintain an even tension.
l) Variegated yarn: Will stripe or pattern as you knit.
Want to add a variation not on the list? Post a comment. I'd love to see your finished hats!
Have fun!
© August 2006 Vicki Mikulak
All rights reserved. Please print only one (1) copy of this pattern for your own personal use. Feel free to use this pattern to knit hats that are donated to charities.
























